Now, on to the business of homemade espresso. Stovetop percolator espresso maker: FRIEND OR FOE?
(it looks so innocent just sitting there, doesn't it?)
Well, today, I'd say foe, and yet I was still able to self-caffeinate, which was a blessing seeing as how every day prior I had to walk a good 20 minutes to the nearest espresso place, and that's the place where they charge 5 Euro for a doppio (and who really wants a single if they're from Seattle?). So, I decided to give it a try. I think I put the thing together correctly, put it on my hotplate set to high, and waited. And waited. And eventually maybe a little bit of the water had bubbled up and into the little hole that presumably trickles down to the ground espresso and into the bottom chamber. But then I figured all the brew at the bottom was totally going to get that burned taste while the rest of the water boiled. So, here's what I was stupid enough to do: unscrewed the top part from the bottom part (mind you, the thing was kinda...HOT), then started just pouring the hot water over the ground espresso and into the bottom chamber while it still sat on the burner. Then I said to myself "oh, you dumbass, there's this little thing called PRESSURE", and just as I said that to myself, the bottom bit started sputtering and spewing hot water and espresso grounds into the air. Managed to get my tiny little potholders and move the thing off of the burner before all hell broke loose. Sorry I didn't get a picture of the splatter, but I was in a bit of a panic. Got the bottom part in the sink, then just poured the rest of the water onto it, re-applied the top chamber and poured. And despite the miserable failure of proper brewing technique, it actually tasted pretty good and definitely did it's caffeination job...all without leaving the comfort of my hovel. So I guess it's a friend, not a foe. Tomorrow I will treat it with more respect.
After my late breakfast, at which I began reading about Villefranche-sur-Mer and Nice, getting all excited about the next leg of my tour, I had an excellent cello practice session, again applying the great advice and instruction I received from Emily. I think the best thing she said to me was that my hands aren't all that small, and that I totally COULD reach those extensions, and that it's all about having supple connective tissue. Heh, cool. And just thinking that my hands weren't all that small and that I just had to be "supple" kinda already made it easier. Sweet...it works!
I think I might have been able to spend the entire day in my abode, and yet the call of gelato was just too strong. Walked into town, past the Porta Romana that I had passed so many times before and yet not taken a picture:
Met two women who were very lost and managed to help them figure out where to go (in Inglese). They wanted to go to the Museo Zoologica Specola, so naturally I was impressed, and pulled out my map and showed them where to go, since I am clearly now an expert. Went back to Grom, which I think probably wins the gelato contest, though I should really have tried every single place in town before making my decision. On the way I went past the Torre Pagliazza, which is generally regarded as the oldest building in Florence, which dates to the SEVENTH century and is presumed to be of Byzantine origin. Dag, Florence is old.
Torre Pagliazza:
At Grom I was proud of myself for branching out -- got Fico (fig) and Ciocollato ExtraNoir (dark chocolate, wth cocoa nibs):
Made a special point to find one of those gelato places where it's piled high all suggestively for comparison.
slutty gelatto:
classy gelato:
Next I had a pleasant stop at the Loggia dei Lanzi, great for relaxing and people-watching. It's a covered spot on the Piazza della Signorina, built in the 14th century and houses a few stunning sculptures, some Renaissance, some Roman. It's not a large space, and yet they have two guards patrolling to make sure you don't eat, bring your luggage up there, climb on stuff, etc. And they even have whistles just like lifeguards, and they totally whistle at people who are breaking the rules. Awesome. (Sorry I didn't' get a picture of the men with their whistles).
self-portrait at the loggia:
Then I headed to Moyo, hoping for some quality wifi time, but alas, their network seemed to be down. Nonetheless, I enjoyed a Negroni and the free food.
Man, I just love those grain salads...hoping to reproduce when I get home to Seattle.
After Moyo I strolled home, saying goodnight and goodbye to the happy sights of Florence.
Good night Arno:
Good night Ponte Vecchio:
Good night jewelry shops of the Ponte Vecchio:
Good night Pitti Palace:
Good night Museo Zoologia Specola:
Good night supermarket:
Good night mini market (boy did the owner and his little daughter have a good laugh when they saw me photographing their mini mart):
hello bedtime Moretti:
Things I won't miss about Florence:
Mosquitos
"Chiso per Ferie" ("Closed for vacation")
Ninety-five degrees every day
Crowded narrow sidewalks
Suicidal-homicidal scooter drivers
Things I will miss about Florence:
Beautiful old-old-old buildings
Grom gelato
The Arno and its bridges
Pasta
Chianti Classico
Negronis and free food
Finnochiona (except Armando Batali's in Seattle is pretty freaking good!)
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